Elephant Coast Route
The Elephant Coast is bound in the North West by the Ubombo Mountains, in the east by the warm Indian Ocean and in the south by the Umfolozi River just below the Isimangaliso Wetland Park Estuary which is part of a World Heritage site. The area is steeped in history containing a number of paleontological sites of scientific importance. The iSimangaliso Wetland Park and game reserves like the Tembe Elephant Park, the legendary Ndumo, Mkhuze, Hluhluwe, Kosi Bay and surrounding areas offer some of the richest bird and game viewing in the world.
The main Birding areas in North East Zululand are:
TONGALAND ROUTE
4th lake at Kosi Bay - Duncan McKenzieTongaland is the name of the north-eastern corner of Zululand, flanked by the Lebombo Mountains on the west, the Indian Ocean on the east and the Mozambique border in the north. Most of the region is drained by the Phongolo and Mkhuze Rivers, and is characteristically flat. The Phongolo floodplain runs from Jozini to the confluence with the Usutu River , and is dominated by pans, Lala palm savannah and bush clumps. Riverine forest lines some pans and streams. Coastal dune forest hugs the Indian Ocean, and numerous pans and lakes are scattered along the coast.
Tongaland is situated on the southern end of the sub-tropical coastal plain of the east coast of Africa, and therefore provides habitat for many species not found anywhere else in South Africa. Tropical stragglers, both marine and inland, are found every year, and include specials such as Crab Plover, Plain-backed Sunbird, Rosy-throated Longclaw and Livingstone's Turaco.
Ndumo and Tembe are world renowned birding destinations and are among the better places to view the shy Sand Forest specials such as Pink-throated Twinspot, African Broadbill, Neergard's Sunbird and Rudd's Apalis. Tembe is the only place in South Africa where Plain-backed Sunbird is seen regularly. Waterbirds such as Pygmy Goose and Lesser Jacana abound in the floodplain pans.
Kosi Bay, and the road to there, is an off-the-beaten-track spot with lots to offer. Mangroves, lala palm savannah, coastal dune forest and wetlands are the major habitats here, and birds such as Pel's Fishing Owl, Lemon-breasted Canary, Rosy-throated Longclaw and Black-throated Wattle-eye can be viewed.
Duncan McKenzie
NDUMO GAME RESERVE
Banzi PanNdumo Game Reserve is situated on the banks of the Phongola and Usutu rivers and lies adjacent to Mozambique on the northern coastal plain. Despite it's relatively small size (about 9000 ha), Ndumo Game Reserve is one of the most attractive reserves in southern Africa.
Although there are no big herds of game to be seen, the fever tree and fig tree woodland, the many large pans and amazing birdlife well make up for this. Ndumo is arguably one of South Africa's most productive birding areas with well over 400 species being recored here and several of them being at the southernmost limit of their ranges.
DIRECTIONS
From Mkhuze follow the N2 northwards towards Candover and after approximately 10km's turn right to Jozini. Drive through Jozini and follow the signposts to Ndumo. The last 14km stretch of road is quite rough. From Jozini, Ndumo camp is about 80km's.
ACCOMMODATION
There are seven small fully equipped cottages at Ndumo camp as well as upmarket private camps in the area.
SPECIALS
Riverine forest along the PongolaEntering the main gate, the road to the left takes one through Sand Forest and a small wetland. Look out for Pink-throated Twinspot, Rudd's Apalis, Lizard Buzzard and Neergard's Sunbird. The wetland can turn up Black Coucal in summer, especially in the area just outside the fence. Proceeding with this road, the habitat changes to become more open woodland. Species to look out for here are Flappet Lark, Lilac-breasted Roller, Burnt-necked Eremomela, Jameson's Firefinch, Grey Hornbill, White-faced Owl, Grey Go-away-bird, Bearded Woodpecker and Green-winged Pytilia.
The thick Mahemane Bush can produce Crested Guineafowl, Pink-throated Twinspot, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Eastern Bearded Scrub-Robin, Eastern Nicator and Barred Owl.
The road to the main camp passes through tall, thick woodland and can produce Grey-headed Kingfisher, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Retz's Helmet-Shrike, Stierling's Wren-Warbler and African Pygmy-Kingfisher. Striped Kingfishers are common, as well as Golden-breasted Bunting and Crowned Hornbill.
The camp itself can be very productive. The bird bath attracts a wide variety of species and an hour of observation can be well rewarded. Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Red-backed Mannikin, Bearded Scrub-Robin, Purple-banded Sunbird and Yellow-bellied Greenbul can all be seen here. Neergard's Sunbird can sometimes be seen around flowering trees.
A guided walk to the Phongola River also passes through patches of Sand Forest, grasslands and riverine forest. African Broadbill, Broad-billed Roller, Southern Banded Snake-Eagle, Lemon-breasted Canary, Brown-headed Parrot and Eastern Nicator can be seen on the way to the river. Along the river, look out for Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Narina Trogon, Dark-backed Weaver, Collared Sunbird, Green Malkoha, Black-throated Wattle-eye and the elusive duo; Pel's Fishing Owl and African Finfoot. White-browed Robin-Chats are often seen near the pumphouse.
Nyamithi Pan is the centre of Ndumo's attraction. Highly seasonal, the pan attracts numbers of specials including Great White and Pink-backed Pelican, Woolly-necked, Saddle-billed, African Openbill and Yellow-billed Stork, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Lesser Jacana, Black Heron, Fulvous Duck, Pygmy Goose, Water Thick-knee, Comb Duck, Goliath Heron and, in summer, Sooty Falcon, Collared Pratincole and Blue-cheecked Bee-eater. Waders are well represented in summer, look out for Green Sandpiper, Kittlitz's Plover and Pied Avocet.
Banzi Pan, which lies just north of Nyamithi Pan, holds impressive numbers of Pygmy Goose (up to 600) and White-faced Duck (>1000). Whiskered and White-winged Terns, Lesser Jacana, African Openbill and Spurwinged Goose are all regularly recorded.
Check all small pans and wetlands for elusive marsh species such as Dwarf Bittern, Rufous-bellied Heron, African and Baillon's Crake, Allen's Gallinule, Lesser Moorhen and Greater Painted-snipe.
Raptors are common, with at least 40 species recorded. Bateleur, Lesser Spotted, Steppe, Martial, African Crowned, African Hawk and Wahlberg's Eagle, African Goshawk, Eurasian Hobby, Bat Hawk and Osprey are some of the specials found in Ndumo.
Other interesting species found throughout the reserve in suitable habitat include White-eared Barbet, Golden-rumped Tinkerbird, Purple-crested Turaco, Tambourine Dove, Grey Cuckooshrike, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, Woodward's Batis, White-browed and Red-capped Robin-Chat, African Yellow White-eye, Grey Sunbird, Green Twinspot and Red-headed Weaver.
Ndumo also has a reputation of producing South African rarities. Exciting species that have been recorded include Long-toed Lapwing, African Skimmer, Chestnut-fronted Helmet-Shrike, Thick-billed Cuckoo, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Eastern Saw-wing and Ayres' Hawk-Eagle.
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST
A number of game species occur in Ndumo, including Black and White Rhino, Giraffe, Leopard, Suni Antelope, Nyala and Red Duiker. The pan holds Hippo and some of the largest crocodiles in South Africa. Ndumo is also famed for its plant species.
by Duncan McKenzie
TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK
Tembe Elephant Park, under the custodianship of KZN Wildlife, is situated within Tongaland, in the extreme northern part of Zululand. Tembe borders on Mozambique in the north, and is named after one of the late local Tonga tribal leaders. The reserve is 30 000ha in size, and was proclaimed in 1983 to protect the elephants, sand forest and suni antelope.
Tembe protects a number of habitats, including sand forest, open and closed woodland, grassland, swamps and pan-edge. Over 350 species have been recorded, including many South East Africa endemics, wetland and sand forest specials as well as occasional vagrants from the more tropical areas north of Zululand.
From the N2 highway linking Durban to Pongola, travel up to the Jozini/ Ndumo/ Kosi bay turn-off (situated 50km south of Pongola). Drive up through the village of Jozini, and over the Jozini Dam Wall. Continue with this tar road for about 76km, following the signs to Kosi Bay and Manguzi. The park's turn-off is situated on the left had side of the road, and is signposted. The roads in the reserve are very sandy, and a 4x4 vehicle is recommended.
Tembe Elephant Lodge is the only private concession holder to offer accommodation in the reserve.
BIRDING SPECIALS
Tembe is probably most famous for being the only locality in South Africa where one has a reasonable chance of seeing Plain-backed (Blue-throated) Sunbird. These small birds are found in sand forest patches in the Gowanini section of the park where they feed on flowering mistletoes.
All the usual sand forest specials such as Neergard's Sunbird, African Broadbill, Pink-throated Twinspot and eastern Nicator occur. Other specials in the sand forest include Narina Trogon, Woodward's Batis, Gorgeous Bush Shrike and Crested Guineafowl.
The many small, seasonal wetlands (of which Muzi Pan is the largest) may hold Rufous-bellied Heron, Little Bittern, Saddle-billed, Woolly-necked and Yellow-billed Stork, African and European Marsh Harriers, Osprey, African Crake, Lesser Jacana, Collared Pratincole, Southern Brown-throated Weaver and Red-headed Quelea.
The grasslands should be checked for exciting birds such as Lemon-breasted Canary, Senegal Plover, Black-bellied Bustard and Rosy-throated Longclaw.
Tall woodland species to look out for include Yellow White-eye, Grey Cuckooshrike, Retz's Helmet Shrike and Emerald Cuckoo.
Grey Waxbill and Green Twinspot can be seen in thicker tangles near seeding grasses, and are both fairly common.
Rare raptors are frequently recorded in Tembe. Bat Hawk, Southern Banded Snake Eagle, Cuckoo Hawk and Palm-nut Vulture have all been recorded, as well as more regular sightings of Black-chested Snake Eagle, Little Sparrowhawk, Martial and African Crowned Eagles.
Tembe protects the last remaining wild elephants in Zululand (all other populations have been re-introduced) and they are frequently seen from hides at the waterholes. Other mammals occurring in Tembe include 10 species of bats, Spotted Hyaena, Brown Hyaena, Leopard, White and Black Rhinoceros, Nyala, Kudu, Blue Wildebeest, Giraffe, Buffalo, Hippopotamus, ,Burchell'sZebra, Warthog, RedDuiker and the rare Suni. There are also many rare sand forest plants protected in the reserve.
Duncan McKenzie and Catharine Hanekom
TEMBE TO KOSI ROAD
This section of road from Tembe Elephant Park to Kosi Bay has three good birding spots on it.
They are:
Nyanyani Pan
This large seasonal pan is situated 8km before the village of Manguzi, and about 17km from the Tembe turn-off. It covers both sides of the tar road, but the southern side is more extensive.
This pan regularly holds thousands of waterbirds, especially the dry winter months (if there is water). Many egrets and herons such as Goliath, Purple, Great White, Little and occasionally Rufous-bellied occur and are very visible. Pink-backed Pelicans wander in after food, and one can normally spot at least two African Fish Eagles sitting on poles. African and Lesser Jacana are fairly common, also look out for Lesser Moorhen and Allen's Gallinule skulking in the sedges, as well as Black Crake.
Three-banded, Kittlitz's and Wattled Plovers are confiding and perch on or near the road. African Snipe occurs around the pan edges.
A number of duck species occur, with White-faced numbers reaching thousands. Look out for Red-billed Teal, Hottentot Teal, Pygmy Goose, Cape Shoveller, Fulvous Duck, White-backed Duck and Spur-winged Goose.
The grasslands in and around the pan can produce Rosy-throated Longclaw, Caspian Plover, Common Waxbill and Grey-rumped Swallow.
Other fish-eaters include Pied and Malachite Kingfishers and Whiskered Tern.
Great Bittern has been recorded in the past.
Manguzi Forest
This dry forest is a fine example of a sand forest which covered much of the area in the past. Controlled by KZN Wildlife, permission to enter must be obtained from the Rangers that reside on the edge of the forest.
Traveling west from Manguzi, turn right exactly 1km from the main tar road/ police station turn-off. A sand track leads up through rural settlements. Follow a fence (on your left) for 500m and take the left split in the track. 600m later the track splits again - take the left fork. After 400m the track splits again, and again turn left. This leads straight into the KZN Wildlife Ranger's outpost, where permission must be obtained to enter. Park your vehicle here. The reserve is accessible with a two-wheel drive vehicle in winter, but a vehicle with high ground clearance is recommended for summer.
Once parked, exit the gate on foot, turn left and follow the fence for about 15m. A track leads off into the forest where the Ranger's outpost fence ends. Follow this path through the forest, till you exit on the other side. On exiting, turn right and follow the fence back to the Ranger's outpost. The forest is not large, and this walk will take approximately an hour.
The forest is severely under-birded, so you could find "new" species with every visit. Look out for mixed parties, including Blue-mantled Crested and Paradise Flycatcher, Woodward's Batis, Forest Weaver, Eastern Nicator, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Brown Robin, Green-backed Cameroptera, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Collared Sunbird, Square-tailed Drongo and Eastern Olive Sunbird.
The path leading back to the outpost could produce Red-backed Mannikin, Lesser Honeyguide, Red-billed Firefinch, Green Twinspot and Yellow-breasted Apalis.
Kosi Forest Lodge
Situated in sand forest near the coast, this excellent birding locality is a must to visit. Access is by 4x4, although a pick-up with high ground clearance will make it - the track is just sandy. To get there, turn off to the police station in Manguzi (25km after the Tembe turn-off). Drive around to the station, turning left just before it. There are signs to follow "Kosi Forest Lodge". Follow the dirt road for a few km's and turn left at the sign "Kosi Forest Lodge". A sand track then takes you to the lodge.
Just before the camp, on the right, lies kuShengeza Lake. Look out for African Fish Eagle, Goliath Heron, African Jacana, Yellow-billed Duck and Pygmy Goose.
The camp grounds are great for selected sand forest and coastal bush specials. Purple-crested Turaco, Green Twinspot, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Orange-breasted Bush Shrike, Red-capped Robin Chat, Brown Scrub-Robin, African Broadbill, Golden-rumped Tinkerbird, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Grey Penduline Tit, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Eastern Nicator and Collared Sunbird can all be seen around the lodge. Wood Owl, Spotted Thick-knee and Fiery-necked Nightjar can be heard at night.
A walk to and canoe trip on the Manzimnyama/ Siyadla Channel could produce Half-collared Kingfisher, African Finfoot, Green Pigeon, White-eared Barbet, Woodward's Batis, Livingstone's Turaco, Green Coucal, Crowned Hornbill, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Narina Trogon, Lemon Dove, Southern-banded Snake Eagle and Narina Trogon. The lucky birders could spot the elusive Pel's Fishing Owl in the channel, and an Ayre's Eagle overhead.
Kosi 4th Lake is also canoe-able, look out for Palm-nut Vulture in the Raffia-palm Forest on the lake edge, as well as a number of coastal forest and wetland species.
Guides are available at the lodge to escort visitors to the channel, lake as well as the Manguzi Forest.
KOSI BAY NATURE RESERVE
Kosi Bay dune forest and estuary by Guy UpfoldSituated in the extreme north-eastern corner of the Kwazulu Natal Province of South Africa, Kosi Bay offers some of the most exciting birding opportunities in southern Africa to both local and foreign visitors. Kosi Bay comprises an estuarine lake system consisting of four inter-linked lakes holding varying levels of fresh and brackish water. The four lakes, Makhawulani, Mpugwini, Nhlange and aManzimnyama are fed by the Siyadla and Nswamanzi Rivers from the south and west respectively. At the northern end of the lake system, the estuary opens into the sea providing a relatively large area of open sandbanks, mudflats and some of the most diverse Mangrove swamps in South Africa.
The attraction of Kosi, is however not restricted to the aquatic environment, and the surrounding tropical East Coast littoral vegetation supports mature coastal forest, thicket and grassland. The fringes of the lakes and in particular, the southern lakes hold relatively large areas of swamp and Rafia Palm Forest. Within this vegetation mosaic a number of endemic species as well as species at the southern end of their afrotropical range can be found.
BIRDING
One of the beauties of the Kosi Bay region is its diversity. However, as richly diverse as the region is, it lacks the accessibility of some of the other top birding destinations, and a number of days are required to explore the lakes, forests, woodlands and grassy wetlands properly. The region can be broadly classified into a number of areas including the mouth and estuary, the coastal forests, the mixed woodland and thicket and the moist grasslands.
Estuarine and Open Water
Together with the myriad of ancient fishing kraals and hundreds of tropical fish, the Kosi Bay mouth is home to a regular number of wading and other estuarine species. The summer months are best for waders, and the estuary attracts a good diversity of waders including the usual Greenshank, Curlew Sandpiper and relatively large numbers of Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Bartailed Godwit amongst others. Small numbers of Sand and Mongolian Plover are also present at times, and if one is lucky the odd Crab Plover may reveal itself from the Mangroves. Other birds attracted to the lake system include Black Egret, Rufousbellied Heron, Little and Lesser Crested Tern, Giant Kingfisher, Greater and Lesser Flamingo and Saddlebilled Stork, the latter often working the fish kraals for easy pickings. The mangroves support small numbers of Mangrove Kingfisher in winter.
The Lakes, attractive to fisherman and birder alike are best explored by boat. Fish Eagle, Osprey and Palmnut Vulture can be seen patrolling the shoreline or lakeside fringes, while reedy channels holds small numbers of Blackbacked Cisticola, African Sedge Warbler, Cape Reed Warbler and ever present African Marsh Harriers. Quiet backwaters attract Malachite Kingfisher, Pygmy Geese and Whitebacked Duck.
The coastline has produced a number of interesting sightings in recent times including Greater Frigatebird and Audubons Shearwater and the potential exists for any number of tropical pelagic species.
Coastal, Swamp and Rafia Forests
Afternoon at Kosi estuary with the fish traps by Guy UpfoldAn early morning in the one of the coastal forests on the southern, eastern or western shores can produce many of the typical forest species including Forest Weaver, Squaretailed Drongo, Blackbellied Starling, Woodwards Batis, Narina Trogon, Green Coucal, African Broadbill, Yellowstreaked Bulbul, Grey Cuckoo Shrike, Goldenrumped Tinkerbarbet, Chorister Robin, Olive Bush Shrike and Bluemantled Flycatcher. As in all forests, knowledge of calls will definitely help in identifying and locating many of the species. Together with many of the commoner species, the forests also support relatively large numbers of the racially distinct Tonga Brown Robin, which inhabits the coastal forests from Zululand to southern Mozambique and can be identified by its quiet whistling song. The forests are also home to one of South Africa most spectacular birds, the Livingstones Lourie who’s presence is often given away by its penetrating croaking call. The extensive Rafia Forests on the Lake margins support relatively large numbers of Palmnut Vulture. Check the forest fringes with suitable large dead trees for the spectacular Broadbilled Roller, while the “clicking” African Goshawk can be seen patrolling the early morning skies.
A canoe trip into the Swamp Forest up the Siyadla River at the southern end of the fourth lake regularly produces African Finfoot, Osprey, Pygmy Geese, Brownthroated Weaver, White-eared Barbet, Purple Heron and occasionally one might catch a glimpse of the secretive Heuglins Robin. The Siyadla River is also home to one of southern Africas most enigmatic birds, the Pels Fishing Owl. Both early morning and night trips up the Siyadla River have produced this secretive resident. The area is also home to Hippo and caution should be exercised when moving up the river.
Thicket and Woodlands
The mosaic of sand forest, coastal thicket and coastal grassland to the west of the lake system support a wide array of typical east coast species, and although birding in this area is potentially frustrating due to the thickness of the vegetation, patience will be definitely be rewarded. A few hours in this habitat can produce a broad array of species including Rudds and Yellowbreatsed Apalis, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Yellowspotted Nicator, Terrestrial, Yellowbellied and Sombre Bulbul, Purplebanded, Olive and Grey Sunbird, Trumpeter Hornbill, Livingstones Lourie, Bluegrey Flycatcher, Orangebreasted Bush Shrike, Spectacled Weaver, Natal, Whitebrowed and Tonga Brown Robin. The area also supports Cuckoo Hawk, Gymnogene and Southern Banded Snake Eagle. The more open woodland supports Yellowthroated Sparrow, Grey Penduline Tit, Lizard Buzzard and Pallid Flycatcher. Listen out for Wood Owl at night.
Grasslands
The larger patches of grassland within the woodland support Blackbellied Korhaan, Flappet and Rufousnaped Lark, Croaking Cisticola, European Roller, Shelleys Francolin and Stonechat in winter. Moist grasslands and swamp to the south and west of Kosi Bay hold Pinkthroated, Yellowthroated and Orangethroated Longclaw, Lesser Jacana, Hottentot Teal, as well as a variety of typical moist grassland species including Palecrowned Cisticola, Wattled, Blackwinged and Lesser Blackwinged Plover. A night drive in the grasslands often produces Natal Nightjar, listen out for the chop chop chop call. Grassland skies hold Blackbreasted Snake Eagle and Eastern Redfooted Kestrel.
Other attractions to Kosi
Loggerhead turtle hatchling at Kosi Bay by gareth ChittendenIn season turtle tracking from Bhanga Nek is a very popular night time activity at Kosi. Walks often allow one to get right up close to female Leatherback and Loggerhead Turtles as they make their yearly trip to lay eggs.
Kosi mouth offers a spectacular snorkeling experience. A few hundred species of fish have been recorded within the small stretch of reef in the mouth. Depending on the tide, the visibility and current can vary greatly and produce a memorable experience.
TRAVEL TIPS
Malaria
Kosi Bay falls into a prominent Malaria area, and visitors should take the necessary precautions to avoid infection. Precautions include sleeping under a Mosquito net, wearing Mosquito Repellant lotions, sprays and lotions as well as trousers and long sleeve shirts. Consult a Pharmacist or Doctor before departing to determine the most effective prophylactic for the area at the time.
4X4
If one is staying at one of the lodges it is not essential to have your own 4x4, as day trips in lodge owned vehicles negate the need. However if you are visiting the area and staying in one of the campsites, a 4x4 is essential to get around and explore the area.
Write-up by Andrew Hester
SODWANA ROUTE
Coastal bush at Sodwana bay - Duncan McKenzieSituated between St. Lucia in the south and Kosi Bay in the north, the Sodwana route encompasses a wide range of habitas. From the Sand Forest and thornveld of Phinda to the lush, subtropical forests of Lake Sibaya; from the wetlands of Muzi to the palm savannah of Ozabeni, this region has a large number of Zululand specials on offer.
The Muzi Swamps area is a birders' paradise, with large numbers of waterbirds. It is here that many, herons, waders and ducks are recorded.
Ozabeni's Palm Savannah offers some exciting birding in unusual habitat.
Mbazwana and Sibaya offer coastal forest and grassland birding, and Sibaya has the addition of having open water, being South Africa's largest freshwater lake.
Specials recorded in the Sodwana Route include East Coast endemics such as Neergard's Sunbird, Rudd's Apalis, Pink-throated Twinspot and Lemon-breasted Canary. Also found are African Broadbill, Swamp Nightjar, Pel's Fishing Owl, Collared Pratincole, Black Coucal and Saddle-billed Stork.
By Duncan McKenzie
MUZI PANS
Muzi Swamps or Pans are locally well known for the abundance of waterbird species that occur there. Surrounded by rural villages and forest, the swamp is a typical coastal plain wetland with patches of sedge-marsh, open water, bare shores and some floating vegetation. It is situated on the Mkhuze River floodplain, between Mkhuze Game Reserve and Lake St. Lucia. The pan system becomes a major summer residence for palaeartic waders and some afro-tropical species. The densities and diversity of birds heightens dramatically during summer and regular birding trips here can produce in excess of 120 species in a summers day.
Muzi can be reached via Hluhluwe village, up the R22 towards Sodwana Bay and Mbazwana. About 50km north of Hluhluwe you cross the Mkhuze River bridge, and two kilometers on one finds the D820 turn-off to the left. Take the turn-off and continue on for 2-3 kilometers when you come out on to a large wetland area. The roads are tarred and accessible in sedans, no 4x4’s needed.
Another way of reaching it would be along the dirt road that runs between Mkhuze Game Reserve and Phinda Resource Reserve. This road is accessed from the N2 highway, about 10km north of the Hluhluwe turn-off. A drive along this road, which reaches the main Hluhluwe-Sodwana tar road just before the Mkhuze River bridge, can be productive for Lemon-breasted Canary and Pink-throated Twinspot.
BIRDING RECOMMENDATIONS
The Muzi spots fall within community and tribal areas. The area does have Birdlife trained local bird guides who can assist you in birding the area, as well as arranging security for your vehicles. . Please contact the Zululand Birding Route at richardsbay_birdlife.org.za to arrange a guide.
A guided canoe trip can also be taken on the pan with trained canoe guides. These can also be booked via the Birding Route
For the Muzi pans section – the road is raised above the surrounding waters edge and provides a good viewing platform where spotting scopes are recommended equipment. Here again you can walk down to the waters edge and grassland areas and set up viewing points with scopes, etc. Bear in mind that there are large numbers of both crocodiles as well as hippopotami in pan system.
There is no accommodation available, but there are a number of private lodges in the area. Please consult the “Accommodation” pages for more details.
A wide variety of waterbirds can be seen in a short time period. The list of specials is impressive, with Pink-backed Pelican, Black Heron, Dwarf Bittern, Woolly-necked and Saddle-billed Storks, African Openbill, Comb Duck, White-backed and Fulvous Ducks, African Pgymy-goose, African Marsh-harrier, Lesser Moorhen, Allen’s Gallinule, Lesser Jacana, Senegal Lapwing, Greater Painted-snipe, Collared Pratincole, Caspian Tern and Black Coucal all being recorded annually.
Some of the more common species include Goliath Heron, White-faced Duck, African Jacana, African Fish Eagle and White Pelican.
Longtoed Lapwing and Rufous-bellied Heron are recorded occasionally.
A wide variety of woodland birds can also be recorded around the pans. They include Swamp Nightjar, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Grey-rumped Swallow, Eastern Nicator, Bearded Scrub-robin, White-starred Robin (winter), Rudd’s Apalis, Rufous-winged and Red-faced Cisticolas, Burnt-necked Eremomela, African Yellow White-eye, Gorgeous Bush-shrike, Pink-throated Twinspot and Lemon-breasted Canary. Red-billed Oxpeckers are often seen feeding on the cattle next to the pan.
Pel’s Fishing Owl can be recorded in the riverine forest, please contact the Zululand Birding Route to arrange a guide.
Duncan McKenzie and Ashwell Glasson
MBAZWANA
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SODWANA BAY NATIONAL PARK
Controlled by KZN Wildlife, this spot on the coast is very popular for holidaymakers. Good fishing and snorkeling/ diving has made this place a household name in South Africa. The reserve part is dominated by coastal forest, with the beach and ocean being additional habitats.
Coastal forest at Sodwana Bay - Duncan McKenzieSodwana Bay is best accessed via Hluhluwe. From the N2 north of Durban, take the Hluhluwe turn-off and drive through the village. At the T-junction, turn left and follow the tar road to Mbazwana village. The reserve is signposted along the way, and is situated about 100km from Hluhluwe. From the north (Johannesburg, Pongola) "Soddies" can be reached by taking the Jozini/ Ndumo/ Kosi turn-off 50km south of Pongola. The turn-off to Sodwana is situated in the village of Jozini, which is reached 20km after turning off the N2. The turn-off is signposted, but be sure not to travel over the Jozini Dam wall, as you have then gone too far. Follow this road, which becomes a dirt/ sand raod for about 38km, and take the right hand turn-off to Mbazwana. It is then another 23km to Mbazwana, and a further 20km on tar road to Sodwana.
Chalets and campsites available in the reserve.
The best birding areas at Sodwana lie along the Ngoboseleni Trail, which starts and ends at the reception office. The trail takes approximately 3 hours to do, and is over easy terrain. The trail covers coastal forest, wetland and a bit of grassland.
Forest species to look and listen for include Livingstone's and Purple-crested Turacos, Brown Scrub-Robin, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Terrestrial Brownbul, Green Twinspot, Woodward's Batis, Green Coucal, Black-bellied Starling, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Grey Waxbill and Eastern Nicator. Parties of Crested Guineafowl can be encountered along the path, and lucky birders can spot Buff-spotted Flufftail in the thicker forest patches.
Ngoboseleni Lake could produce a few waterbirds such as Pygmy Goose, Woolly-necked Stork, Goliath Heron, African Jacana and White-faced Duck. African Fish Eagle can be seen perched on the lake edge, while hippos can be seen floating around in the water.
The area around the camp is good for a variety of coastal scrub birds, such as Golden-rumped Tinkerbird, Bearded Scrub-Robin, Collared, Grey and Olive Sunbirds, Southern Boubou, Green-backed Cameroptera, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Red-backed Manikin, Tambourine Dove and African Pied Wagtail.
Sea-birds that can be seen from the shore include Cape Gannet, Cape Cormorant, Swift and Caspian Terns and White-fronted Plover.
Sodwana Bay is one of the best sites in South Africa for game fishing, snorkeling and diving in the warm Indian Ocean and a number of companies offer these activities off the Bay. Samango Monkeys can be a pest in the camp.
OZABENI SECTION
Ozabeni is the northern area of the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park. It is comprised mostly of the special coastal woody grassland interspersed with seasonal pans and the swamp forest of the Mbazwana Stream. Access is limited to 4x4 only. The sand tracks can be quite heavy and some of the tracks go through very muddy areas on the edge of the pans. There is great Coastal forest, but birds of this habitat are more accessible at other reserves along the coast.
Directions
The turn-off to the reserve is on the new tar road between Hluhluwe and Mbazwana. It is well marked about 15km north of the Lower Mkhuze Bridge. Follow the sand track, through a pan on to the campsite and staff accommodation. Entry is free, but you have to sign the register to enter. Camping needs to book through Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife booking offices. There are no road maps of the reserve and so one simply sticks to the tracks and tries not to get lost!
Birding
The Mbazwana Stream is tricky to bird, but does hold Pel's Fishing Owl, African Finfoot, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Black-throated Wattle-eye and Half-collared Kingfisher. Patient waiting at Samango crossing will reveal a fair bit. The open woodland holds Southern Banded Snake Eagle, African Cuckoo-hawk and Bushveld Pipit. The grasslands east of the stream are good for Cape and Rosy-breasted Longclaw, Pale-crowned Cisticola, Denham's Bustard, Black-rumped Buttonquail, Common Pratincole and African Quail-finch. Swamp Nightjar breeds in the grasslands near the KwaMbila outpost further east in the reserve. Sooty Falcon, Pallid and Montagu's Harriers have been seen in summer. Long-toed Plover has been seen in the pans in the past with Black Coucal and Red-headed Quelea in the vicinity after good rains.
LAKE SIBAYA
Lake Sibaya is the largest freshwater lake in South Africa and is separated from the sea by high forest covered dunes.
Western Shores of Lake Sibaya by Gareth ChittendenLake Sibaya is a drowned river valley lake with a maximum depth of over 40m. Many smaller pans typical of those elsewhere in the area surround the lake. In years of poor rainfall many of these smaller pans dry up leaving Lake Sibaya as the only permanent water in the area where flocks of up to 20 000 waterfowl can congregate. The eastern shores of the lake have very rich dune forest habitat which harbours many of the Zululand "east coast" specials.
From Mkhuze take the R69 towards Candover, after 2km's turn right towards Ubombo. Follow this road to Mbazwana and follow the signposts to Lake Sibaya from here.
Accommodation
There is a wide selection of accommodation available at Mbazwana and Sodwana Bay.
Lake Sibaya hosts an impressive array of species, especially waterbirds. Goliath, Purple, Great White, Squacco, Green-backed and occasionally Rufous-bellied Herons are all recorded in and around the lake edges. Five stork species (Woolly-necked, Saddle-billed, Open-bill, Black and Yellow-bellied) can be seen in one day, as well as other specials such as African Marsh Harrier, Caspian Tern, Collared Pratincole and White Pelican. Check the water's edge for Lesser Jacana, Greater Painted Snipe and Allen's Gallinule. Pygmy Goose should be looked for amongst the waterlilies. Sibaya is also the best locality in Zululand to observe Great Crested Grebe.
Grassland specials recorded regularly include Denham's Bustard, Swamp Nightjar, Pink-throated Longclaw, Grey-rumped Swallow and Secretarybird.
The coastal forest surrounding the lake can turn up African Broadbill, Woodward's Batis, African Crowned Eagle, Livingstone's Turaco, Rudd's Apalis, Brown Scrub-Robin, African Yellow White-eye, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, Grey Sunbird, Green Twinspot and Black-bellied Starling.
BIRDING THE MKHUZE ROUTE
Lower Mkuze wetland - Duncan McKenzieThe Mkhuze area is a place of great beauty and high contrasts. World-renowned as a mecca for bird lovers (more than 400 species have been recorded here) the junction of the moderate and tropical climate zones creates a habitat suitable for an extraordinary variety of plants and animals. The Mkhuze area is renowned for a variety of localised birds including Pink-throated Twinspot, Eastern Nicators, Pels Fishing Owls and Neergaard's Sunbird.
The Mkhuze route also offers visitors a wide choice of accommodation with many private game farms and lodges in the area. The roads are all in a decent condition and can be negotiated with a sedan. Another drawcard for the Mkhuze area is its close proximity to the other large Zululand reserves. Also home to black and white rhino, elephant, giraffe, hippo and crocodile, this area is predominantly flat and dry, with sandy red ridges which are ancient dunes. An astonishing diversity of natural habitats occur here, ranging from the eastern slopes of the Lebombo mountain range to the broad stretches of gently rolling acacia savannah, swamps and a variety of woodlands, sand forest and riverine forest. Mkhuze is also renowned for its seasonal and permanent pans with their attendant hippo, crocodiles and abundant birdlife.
The Birding spots along the Mkhuze Route Include Mkhuze Game Reserve, Leopard Mountain Game Lodge and Lebombo Game Reserve. Phinda is renowned for the game (Big Five) and bird viewing opportunities. With a bird list exceeding 300, who would argue?
LEBOMBO MOUNTAIN NATURE RESERVE
This relatively unknown reserve lies between the impressive Lebombo Mountains and the Mkhuze River and covers a variety of habitats including riverine bush, thornveld, grassland and cliffs. The reserve is administered by KZN Wildlife, and was proclaimed in the 1980's to protect the many rare plants that grow around the mountain. The reserve lies from 90m to 595m above sea level, and stretches to the top of the Lebombo Mountains.
Traveling from Durban or Johannesburg, drive the N2 highway and take the Mkhuze turn-off (about 60km south of Pongola and 50km north of the Hluhluwe turn-off). Drive through the village till the T-junction. Here one turns right to Mkhuze Game Reserve, but turn left to Ubombo. Travel past Ghost Mountain Inn and turn right about 3km later (after crossing the Mkhuze River Bridge). Continue up this dirt road for about 7km. The reserve turn-off is situated on the right hand side of the road, and is displayed by a large wall with the name on it.
There is a rustic chalet in the reserve, sleeping 4. There are many lodges and hotels in the village of Mkhuze.
On entering the gate, you travel past and then through a grove of Fever Trees that adjoin the Mkhuze River. Scan this area for Pink-throated Twinspot, Purple-banded, Scarlet-chested and Collared Sunbirds, Rudd's and Yellow-breasted Apalis, Burnt-necked Eremomela, Terrestrial Brownbul, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Southern Black Tit, Southern Boubou, Long-billed Crombec, Pygmy Kingfisher, Grey Tit and Ashy Flycatchers, Forest and Spectacled Weavers and Emerald-spotted Dove. Listen for White-throated and White-browed Robin-Chats calling from the thickets.
Other riverine specials include Goliath and Green-backed Herons, Woolly-necked Stork and Intermediate and Little Egrets.
The broad-leaved woodland on the slopes of the mountain is good for Blue Waxbill, Violet-backed Starling, Grey-headed Bush Shrike, Brown-crowned and Southern Tchagras, Crowned Hornbill, Kurrichane Thrush, Black-headed Oriole, Purple-crested Turaco, Lilac-breasted Roller, Little and White-fronted Bee-eaters, Emerald-spotted Dove, Cardinal and Golden-tailed Woodpeckers, Green Pigeon and Red-fronted Tinkerbird.
Mkuze River at the Lebombo Range - Duncan McKenzieRaptors can often be seen circling around the cliffs, and these include Martial Eagle, African Fish Eagle, Bateleur, Lappet-faced Vulture and African White-backed Vulture.
This reserve is under-birded and many more specials could be found. Watch this space!!!
Antelope such as Burchell's Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Impala and Nyala are present. The reserve protects a number of rare plants, including the Lebombo Cycad. There is a 4x4 track as well.
Duncan McKenzie, Hannes and Amanda de Bruin
LEOPARD MOUNTAIN GAME LODGE
Leopard Mountain Game Reserve, winner of the 'Game and Nature Reserves' category in the AA Accommodation Awards 2001, is a 3500 ha natural heritage site of pristine bushveld, centrally situated in Maputaland between the Hluhluwe and Mkhuze Game Reserves. Their position puts them in the middle of South Africa's birding hotspot and within one hour of all the major Maputaland attractions including Sodwana Bay, Lake Sibaya and Ndumo Game Reserve. Within this area over 472 bird species have been recorded which makes Leopard Mountain one of the top birding spots in the country. Leopard Mountain has a diverse variety of habitats including the following: riverine forest, montane, grassland, dense thickets, broadleaf woodland, acacia bushveld. Added to this 16km of the Umsunduze River runs through the center of the reserve.
From the N2 north bound, approximately 34 km after Hluhluwe, take the road D464 - sign posted "Leopard Mountain Game Lodge". Follow the sign posts for 13 kms of dirt road - suitable for sedan type cars. Leopard Mountain is approximately 3 hours drive from Durban international airport, 1 hour from Richards Bay, and approximately 6 hours from Johannesburg.
Accommodation is luxurious and affordable. Being an award winning lodge in the AA Accommodation Awards 2001, Leopard Mountain truly lives up to luxurious living in the wild with seven stone and thatch chalets nestled on the cliff top. Each chalet is strategically placed to offer privacy and outstanding views of the distant Lebombo mountain range. Each chalet has its own private deck and hammock, twin double beds, lounging area, fully stocked bar fridge and coffee facilities, bathroom en suite (with an equally magnificent view). Family rooms have additional bunk beds. Leopard Mountain also offers self-catering facilities.
SPECIALS FOR THE AREA
Leopard Mountain has a number of habitats to attract a vast number of bird species. Start looking out for interesting species as you drive through Zululand on your way to the Lodge. Bateleurs are often spotted doing aerial displays in the skies above the grasslands on the left-hand side of the D464 (the road leading to the Lodge).
The telephone line to the Lodge is a favorite perching place for European and Lilac-breasted Rollers. Keep an eye out for the Broad-billed Rollers around October.
Once through the gate, between the 'fieldstaff' sign and the Lodge there is a waterhole just off the road where in the morning and afternoon a number of Purple-Crested Turacos and Grey Go-away-birds congregate with Emerald-spotted Wood-Doves. Eastern Nicators, Green-winged Pytilla, Jameson's Firefinch and Yellow-throated Longclaws fly to and from this waterpoint all day long.
In the lawn around the parking lot at the Lodge you will see Striped Pipits mingling with Bronze Mannikins and Yellow-fronted Canaries.
From the moment you arrive you will be aware that the staff at Leopard Mountain are themselves very keen birders. The indigenous plants in the gardens around the Lodge and luxury chalets have specifically been chosen to attract sunbirds, canaries, firefinches, waxbills, bulbuls and others. Each chalet has its own birdbath, and bird feeders are dotted around the garden attracting Natal Francolin, Crested Francolin, Blackheaded Orioles, White-crested Helmet-Shrikes and a variety of other bushveld birds right to your private verandah.
The Lodge is situated on a clifftop overlooking the Umsunduze River and vast bushveld plains. The thermals from the rockface in front of the Lodge are ideal for viewing Wahlberg's, Crowned and Martial Eagles, Black Stork and various vultures and goshawks, herons, Striped Kingfishers and a number of Cuckoos. The steep rock cliffs on the river edge also attract a variety of birds.
Leopard Mountain has numerous easy walks and exciting horse rides that one can take through unspoiled bushveld, well-stocked with rhino, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck, impala, nyala, kudu, warthog, Ostrich etc. They also have a very exciting 4x4 trail open to guests, mud baths and a unique rock pool to cool off in.
Leopard Mountain also offers added activities off the park which include tiger fishing at Lake Jozini, drives to the nearby big five game reserves, visits to a nearby cultural village, golf and boat cruises.
Leopard Mountain also boasts a very successful corporate team building and conferencing venue, with activities which include abseiling, obstacle course, inverted traverse, paintball, river volley ball and drumming.
By Wayne Viviers and Kerry Logan
THE MKHUZE GAME RESERVE
Mkhuze Game Reserve was proclaimed in 1912 and covers some 40 000 ha. This reserve rates as one of South Africa's favourite birding destinations and is one of Zululand's top 3 birding spots. Mkhuze also boasts one of South Africa's highest checklists for a protected area with over 400 species being recorded here. The main reason for this is the diversity of habitats included in the protected area. These include pans, swamps, acacia thornveld, sand forest, riverine forest and open woodland. There are even mountainous areas with cliffs as well as open grassland in places.
Mkhuze Hide photo by Gareth ChittendenFrom Hluhluwe town, take the N2 north. Signposted approximately 50km's north, is the town of Mkhuze. Follow the road through town to the T-junction, (avoiding the left hand fork to the business centre). Here take a right turn and follow the fairly good gravel road, (suitable for sedan cars), for about 10km. Look out for the signboard which indicates the left turn leading into Mkhuze Game Reserve. If coming from the north, Mkhuze village is about 60km from Phongola Town.
New Entrance Gate to Mkhuze Game Reserve
A new bridge and all-weather road is now linking the Sodwana Bay and Mkhuze sections of the Greater Isimangaliso Wetland Park Wetland Park. The Ophansi Bridge, built over the Mkhuze River, provides an eastern access to Mkhuze for the first time. This new route allows visitors to the Wetland Park to enjoy diving activities, birding and canoeing on the Muzi Pan, which is situated between Sodwana Bay and Mkhuze, and excellent game viewing - all within a 70 kilometer radius.
The D820 access road on which the bridge is built, can be reached via the Lubombo Road which connects Hluhluwe with Sodwana Bay and Kosi Bay further to the north. The traveling time from Sodwana Bay to the new entrance is a comfortable 40 minutes.
Previously Mkhuze only had one entrance on its western border near the town of Mkhuze, making it virtually impossible to visit Sodwana Bay and this section of the Wetland Park in one day. The new bridge now makes a quality beach and bush experience possible, and also gives an opportunity for members of the kwaJobe community, who live on the eastern border of Mkhuze, to develop and benefit directly from tourism opportunities.
Over the last few years, a number of significant infrastructure upgrades to Mkhuze have enhanced its appeal to visitors. These developments have included the upgrading of roads and game viewing hides, as well as the introduction of 140 buffalos, two packs of wild dogs and most recently two male and two female cheetah.
Local Bird Guides can meet birders at the new gate to explore the lower Mkhuze and Muzi Pans areas. Please contact ZBR on 035 753 5644 or email guides_zbr.co.za for more information
Accommodation in Mkhuze Game Reserve is mainly situated at Mantuma Camp (about 10km's from gate) and consists of very comfortable self-catering chalets, rest husts and safari camps. There is also a campsite at the entrance gate. In Mkhuze Village and surrounding areas there are a variety of private lodges, including Ghost Mountain Inn and Leopard Mountain Game Lodge. Both of thelatter establishments are in fairly close proximity to the reserve, and offer birder-orientated tours into Mkhuze. Leopard Mountain Game Lodge also offers birding tours on its own premises (see Leopard Mountain birding spot).
Birding in Mkhuze is excellent all year round, but is boosted in summer by migrant birds such as Broadbilled Rollers, Emerald Cuckoos and Woodland Kingfishers.
The camp site near the entrance of the reserve is good for Jameson's Firefinch, Green-winged Pytilia, Marico Sunbird and Black Stork is often seen flying overhead. African Wood-Owl can often be heard at night. The road between the campsite and the main camp can produce Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Stierling's Wren-Warbler, Striped Kingfisher, Brown-crowned Tchagra and Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike. The skies at the picnic site near the Kwamalibali hide should be scanned for Bateleur and Lappet-faced Vulture.
The Sand Forest around Kubube and Kumasinga hides is the best place to find Pink-throated Twinspot, African Broadbill, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, African Barred Owlet and Yellow-bellied Greenbul. If you are lucky you might also spot a Redbilled Helmetshrike. In late winter and early spring, flowers ofthe Weeping Boer Bean tree (Schotia brachypetla) act as powerful magnets to Neergard's, Purple-banded, Collared, Eastern Olive, Grey, Scarlet-chested and White-bellied Sunbirds. Purple-crested Turaco, White-crested Helmet-Shrike, Woolly-necked Stork, Comb Duck, Lesser Moorhen, Dwarf Bittern, Stierling's Wren-Warbler, Red-backed Mannikin, Grey Waxbill and Crested Guineafowl can all be recorded from the two hides, which must rate as some of the best in the country. The grassy verges along 'waterholes' at these hides are renowned for harbouring Dwarf Bittern and Greater Painted Snipe in the wetter summer months.
Mkhuze Bushveld photo by Duncan McKenzieMantuma camp is a great place to observe Bearded Robin at close quarters, as well as Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Lesser Masked-Weaver, Collared Sunbird and in summer, Violet-backed Starling. A small hide next to a waterhole in the camp can provide close-up views of birds, including Purple-crested Turaco. The Riverview Walk, (which leaves from opposite the camp office), offers a good opportunity to look out for Pinkthroated Twinspots and Grey Waxbills, especially in the early mornings and evenings. Yellowspotted Nicator frequently haunts the tangles around the safari camp.
The Loop Road area consists of open thornveld, and the birder could see Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey Penduline Tit, Bushveld Pipit, Flappet Lark, Grey Go-away Bird, Brownheaded Parrot and a number of raptors including Tawny, Steppe and Lesser Spotted Eagles. The raptors are especially prominent after heavy rains when they prey on emerging termite alates (flying ants).
