Birding in North-West Zululand
Home to about 500 species, North West Zululand provides the visitor with a wide variety of birds. From the low altitude, subtropical thickets in the east to the high altitude temperate grasslands in the west, this region covers many habitats and their accompanying birds.
The North West Zululand is well known for its large wetlands, rolling hills and wide variety of big game, including the big five. 58 of Southern Africa's endemic and near endemic birds are found here too, many of them confined to the extensive grasslands and wetlands.
Birding is best in the warmer summer months, but winter provides large congregations of water birds around nationally important wetlands.
Rainfall varies from 500mm to well over 1500mm per annum. The hot, wet season - best for birding - starts in September and ends in March. The cool, dry season runs from April to August. Average maximum summer temperatures are around 30 degrees, with winter temperatures dropping to around 20 degrees. Frost occurs at altitudes above 900m above sea level for the two coldest months (June and July). Snowfalls are irregular at altitudes above 1300m above sea level, and never last longer than two days.
Excellent to fair roads link all birding spots mentioned, but drivers are cautioned on gravel roads when they are wet as they can become impassable to normal vehicles.
Accommodation ranges from ultra luxury to basic camping sites - the choice is yours!
North West Zululand was also the venue for at least six Anglo Zulu and Anglo Boer War battles including the battle of Kambula where 1000+ Zulus lost their lives. Write-up by Duncan McKenzie
BIRDING THE VRYHEID ROUTE
Home to about 350 species, this region of Zululand provides the birder with 50 endemic or near-endemic species.The Vryheid Route is situated at the highest altitude in the Zululand Birding Route, and lies on the ecotone of the extensive grasslands in the west and the bushveld areas to the east. This, combined with the many wetlands and mountains in the area, ensures that the birder is always kept busy.
Wetland Near Vryheid photo by Duncan MckenzieSome noteworthy endemics such as Southern Bald Ibis, Blue Crane, Blue Korhaan, Ground Woodpecker, South African Cliff Swallow, Bush Blackcap, Buff-streaked Chat and Gurney's Sugarbird occur alongside near-endemics such as Eastern Long-billed and Spike Heeled Lark, Mountain Wheatear, Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler, Olive Bush Shrike and Swee Waxbill.
All five of Zululand's major rivers have all or some of their catchments in this area, resulting in many wetlands. These wetlands provide nationally important numbers of Grey Crowned Crane, as well as shy rallids such as Red-chested Flufftail, African Rail and Baillon's Crake. Thousands of duck and geese moult at Blood River Vlei in winter, and the Klipfontein Bird Sanctuary is one of the best places in South Africa to view rails, crakes and flufftails.
Phongola Bush Nature Reserve in the north is one of Zululand's best-kept secrets, and is home to breeding African Crowned, Verreaux's and Martial Eagles, Orange Ground Thrush and White-starred Robin. The setting is magnificent, climax mistbelt forest against high cliffs and rolling grasslands.
Between Blood River Vlei and Phongola Bush lies a mountain called Skurweberg (rough mountain). Birds characteristic of higher altitudes are found up here, including Blue Crane, Eastern Long-billed Lark and Denham's Bustard.
Vryheid Hill Nature Reserve borders on the town and is well known for its diversity of forest, woodland and grassland species. African Crowned Eagles breed in the reserve, and Broad-tailed Warbler, African Cuckoo Hawk, Bush Blackcap, Buffy, Long-billed and Striped Pipits and Chorister Robin-Chat also occur here.
Just south of Vryheid lies Esikhuma mountain and its surrounding thornveld, home to an interesting mix of mountain and woodland species such as Mocking Cliff-Chat, Jacobin and African Cuckoo, Jackal Buzzard and Verreaux's Eagle.
Natal Spa boasts a resident pair of African Crowned Eagles, the nest being visible from close quarters.
Leopard Rock is situated 70km south of Vryheid along the White Umfolozi River. Here birders will find a different mix of bushveld and woodland than further north, and different bird species. Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Tawny Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, White-backed Vulture and Purple-crested Turaco are some of the interesting species.
Interests and Attractions
VRYHEID WILD BIRD CLUB
Started in 2002, the Vryheid Wild Bird Club (VWBC) now comprises of about 30 members. The club meets every second Thursday in the Library Hall on the corner of High and Market Streets at 18h30. Various club activities are taken part in, including monthly outings, conservation projects such as BIRP, CWAC and CAR as well as hosting bird ID courses. The format is informal and the enthusiasm great.
For any further information please contact the Zululand Route office at +27(35) 75 35 644 or e-mail at guides_zbr.co.za
by Duncan McKenzie
PHONGOLA BUSH NATURE RESERVE
Forested Slopes ant Phongola Bush photo by Geoff NicholsThis breathtaking reserve is situated on the KwaZulu-Natal/Mpumalanga border, about 20km from Wakkerstroom as the crow flies. Ngcaka Cliff and the mountain range around it are covered in climax mixed Yellowwood forest with high altitude short grassland above and tall grassland below. KZN Wildlife maintains the reserve, and permission is required from the Officer in charge in Vryheid before visiting this extremely remote, rugged area. These mountains are the highest in all Zululand, and command fantastic views out over the northern rolling hills.
DIRECTIONS
To enter the reserve, one has to travel on tracks through private land, and one obviously needs permission first. The services of a guide are recommended, as access is tricky. A 4x4 vehicle is compulsory. Contact Duncan McKenzie dmck_vhd.dorea.co.za or at 083 330 1170 to arrange entry and for guiding. The reserve is situated 14km west of the small village of Lüneberg in the Paulpietersburg district.
ACCOMMODATION
A very basic campsite is situated in the forest, in the reserve itself. There is also a stone cottage which is built on private land on top of the mountain in Mpumalanga Province.
SPECIALS
Although the reserve lacks comfortable facilities, it will appeal to the true outdoor enthusiast. Birders and botanists will find hidden treasures around every corner. Orchids, proteas and streptocarpus flowers, a Chorister Robin-Chat nest in a fallen branch or a magnificent Martial Eagle catching a Rock Hyrax in one swoop from the forest - this is the world of the timeless.
Entering the reserve from the south, one passes through tall, moist grassland, which hosts Red-winged Francolin and Broad-tailed Warbler in summer. The forest fringes are home to Tambourine Dove, Bush Blackcap, Lesser Honeyguide, Forest Canary, Forest Buzzard, African Pygmy-Kingfisher, Barratt's Warbler and Greater Double-collared Sunbird.
Deeper forest is the haunt of Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Chorister Robin-Chat, White-starred Robin, Buff-spotted Flufftail, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Grey Cuckooshrike, Southern Double-collared Sunbird and Olive Thrush. The elusive Orange Ground-Thrush favours forested drainage lines.
African Crowned, Martial and Verreaux's Eagle all breed in the forest or on the cliffs. It is an awesome sight to see them patrolling the skies; the lucky birder can see all three species soaring from one spot. Secretarybirds are often encountered, as are African Goshawk, Black Sparrowhawk, Lanner Falcon, Common Kestrel and the endemic Jackal Buzzard.
The short grasslands and rocky gorges on top of the mountain host Gurney's Sugarbird, Mountain Wheatear, Cape Eagle Owl, Alpine Swift, Buff-streaked Chat, Eastern Long-billed Lark, Long-billed Pipit and Malachite Sunbird.
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST
The forest is well known as the southernmost range for many plant species. The forest and grasslands are home to a fascinating variety of plants, many of which are endangered.
The deep "boom" of the Samango Monkeys, here on their western distribution limit, is often heard throughout the forest. Baboon, Rock Hyrax (dassies), Bushpig and Porcupine arealso found and Leopards occur in small numbers.
BIRDING THE LOUWSBERG ROUTE
The Louwsberg Route is situated at medium to high altitude (300m - 1400m above sea level) in far northern KwaZulu-Natal. This range of altitude supports many plant species, and their accompanying birds. In fact, Ithala Game Reserve has the most species of trees of all the reserves in the province.
Three important Zululand rivers transect this route: the Bivane, Phongola and the Mkhuze. All three rivers are flanked by lush, sub-tropical vegetation and have cut impressive gorges and valleys through the predominantly dolerite and granite rock. The rivers act as corridors to birds, leading them up into the numerous smaller streams and valleys.
Up near the top of the route lies Bivane Dam. The area is well known for its plant diversity, which is unrivalled in Zululand. Many botanists visit this area annually to enjoy the number of endemic or rare plants. The birding is fantastic too. White-backed Night Heron, Mountain Wagtail and Half-collared Kingfisher occur on the dam edges, and are joined above by cliff-nesters such as Bald Ibis and Lanner Falcon. The woodland areas hold Jameson's Firefinch, Red-headed Weaver, African Hawk Eagle and Grey Penduline Tit. The grasslands support Short-tailed Pipit, Broad-tailed Warbler and Secretarybird.
Ithala Game Reserve is one of the flagship reserves of the KZN Wildlife. Ithala is the Zulu word for "a high place", and at 1400m, Ngotshe mountain towers over the reserve. Bordered in the north by the Phongola River, this 30 000ha reserve is home to Bald Ibis, Barrow's Korhaan, Long-tailed Widowbird and Secretarybird in the extensive grassland areas. Specials in the wooded valleys include Narina Trogon, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Mountain Wagtail and a host of raptors including African Crowned, Martial, African Hawk and Verreaux's Eagle.
Mocking Cliff-Chat, Mountain Wheatear, Alpine Swift and Freckled Nightjar grace the rocks and cliffs around the main camp. Other endemic species include Jackal Buzzard, Cape Rock Thrush, White-throated Robin-Chat, Fiscal Flycatcher and Cape Longclaw. By Duncan McKenzie
Bushveld BIRDING along THE Ulundi ROUTE
Ulundi is situated in the centre of Zululand, between Melmoth and Vryheid, and has been the site of battlefields, royal residences and provincial government. It is situated in the White Umfolozi valley and is bordered by rolling hills and thorn-tree plains. It is an area not well explored, as some areas are remote and one could easily get lost in rural Zululand. The Cengeni Gate entrance to the Umfolozi Game Reserve is reached by driving through Ulundi. The area is not known for specific bird specials, but a general mix of thornveld and grassland species in some lovely habitat.
BIRDING THE PHONGOLA ROUTE
The Phongola Route contains one of the oldest game reserves in Africa, the Phongola Game Reserve. Even the early conservation pioneers recognised the beauty and value of this area. Superb Sweet Lowveld Bushveld, the only example of this in the province, supports a vast array of species, including some that are rare in other parts of Zululand. These Phongola specials include Burchell's Starling, Bennett's Woodpecker, Levaillant's Cuckoo, Purple Roller, Magpie Shrike and Red-headed Weaver.
The area also contains eastern coastal plain endemics such as Rudd's Apalis, Pink-throated Twinspot, Lemon-breasted Canary and Neergard's Sunbird. Raptors are plentiful, with 10 species of eagle and 4 species of Vulture being recorded. Special raptors include Osprey, African Fish-Eagle, Peregrine Falcon and Lappet-faced Vulture.
Jozini Dam offers good birding, as well as exciting Tiger Fish fishing. Interesting waterbirds recorded in the area include Pink-backed Pelican, Comb Duck, Lesser Moorhen, Painted Snipe, Caspian Tern, Black Coucal and Osprey.
The cliffs on the Lebombo Mountains support cliff-nesting species such as Black Stork, Peregrine Falcon and Rock Kestrel. This mountain range separates the coastal plain from the inland areas, and is an important flyway for migrating raptors.
Mkhuze Falls Game Reserve is situated at 300m above sea level and adds an impressive amount of specials to the route. Lowveld vegetation, hills and wetlands provide habitat for many species. Specials include raptors, waterbirds in the wetland, bush birds and a variety of game including the big five. Visitors could see Yellow-billed Stork, Martial Eagle, Bronze-winged Courser, Black Coucal, Eastern Nicator, Rudd's Apalis, Green-winged Pytilia, Narina Trogon and Little Sparrowhawk. By Duncan McKenzie
HLATIKHULU FOREST
Hlatikhulu Forest is situated on top of the Lebombo Mountains, north-west of the town of Jozini. The forest is quite extensive, and is protected by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. The forest combines species of high and low altitude forests, and is one of the few places in North-west Zululand where this occurs. The forest is not particularly tall, and possesses a very thick understory.
Take the Jozini turn-off from the N2 highway 10km north of the town of Mkuze and proceed straight through the town. You will cross over the Pongolapoort Dam wall, and as you get to the other side, zero your clock in your vehicle. Travel north along the tar road for 3.4km, and turn left onto a gravel road. There is a signpost here “Msiyane High School”. Proceed for 1km and then turn left at the Sizihandi Tea Room. This road takes one up onto the Lebombos. Proceed along this road for 20km, after which you will see the Hlatikhulu Forest signboard on the right hand side of the road. Report here to the Field Rangers.
Another access point, to a taller forest area, is situated 3km before the reserve entrance. Look out for a soccer pitch on the right (east) had side of the road. Turn down here and follow the road into the forest.
A 2-wheel drive vehicle with reasonable access will get you to the forest.
There is an empty house at the forest entrance where one can stay, just bring all your bedding, food and water. Alternatively one can camp outside the house, in a shady spot adjacent to the house. Contact Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife for permission on 084 314 9093.
A pleasant mixture of low and high altitude birds occur here, as well as the more widespread forest species. High altitude species include Bar-throated Apalis, Olive Woodpecker, White-starred Robin, Cape Batis and Olive Bush Shrike. The thicker areas are home to African Broadbill – listen out for it below the camping area.
Crested Guineafowl, Buff-spotted Flufftail, Tambourine and Lemon Doves, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Green-backed Cameroptera and Terrestrial Brownbul can all be looked for on the ground, while Blue-mantled Crested, African Paradise and Ashy Flycatchers hawk insects above. African Emerald, Black, Red-chested, Klaas’s and Diederik Cuckoos are present in spring and summer.
Eastern Nicator and Green Coucal can be very vocal, but hard to track down. Both Purple-crested and Livingstone’s Turacos are present, the latter at its highest altitude in the region. Narina Trogon can be found along the road below the soccer pitch, as well as Square-tailed Drongo, Yellow-rumped and Red-fronted Tinkerbirds, White-eared Barbet, Yellow-streaked and Yellow-bellied Greenbuls, Black-bellied Starling, Dark-backed Weaver and Collared Sunbird. Grey Sunbird is common throughout.
Green Twinspots feed quietly on seeding grasses, and are joined by African Firefinch.
Forest edges are also great places for birds and Hlatikhulu is no exception. Look out for Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Pink-throated Twinspot, Melba Finch, Dusky Indigobird, Jacobin Cuckoo, European Marsh Warbler and in the grassy areas Lazy Cisticola and Yellow-throated Longclaw.
Birds to look out for overhead include African Black Swift, Wahlberg’s and Black-breasted Snake Eagles, European Hobby and a variety of swallows.
Shy forest mammals include Bushpig, Bushbuck, Samango Monkey and Blue Duiker. The forest is home for many rare and restricted plants and botanists would be pleasantly surprized with the variety.
By Duncan McKenzie
BIRDING THE UMFOLOZI ROUTE
The Umfolozi Route is situated totally within the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park (HUP).This park is one of Africa's oldest, and is famous for the protection of White Rhino, which neared extinction only a few decades ago. Hluhluwe is covered under the Hluhluwe Route.
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